Samoyed

Guidance for breeding Samoyeds

If you are thinking about breeding from your Samoyed then this is a far more complex procedure than many would expect, with no guarantee of success.

Some of the questions to ask yourself are:

Is my bitch a good enough example of the breed, healthy and with a good temperament. Is she KC registered, microchipped and had relevant health testing done? Is she old enough (between 16-18mths minimum and had her 2nd season)

Have I the room and enough time to raise a litter?

Can I afford the stud fee, the equipment required (whelping box, vet bed, food, heating etc), vet fees including a possible caesarean, the health checks needed on the pups, worming, registration, microchipping, etc?

Will I be able to cope with the whelping and raising of the pups, the emotional and practical side of it?

Would I be able to find good homes for the puppies?

Would I be able to take back or re-home any puppies if it becomes necessary.

here is a lot else to be taken into consideration and a good web site is thekennelclub.org.uk/breeding to help you make the correct decision.

Hip Dysplasia

Samoyeds are susceptible to a genetic condition called canine hip dysplasia – ‘an abnormal formation of the hip socket that, in its more severe form, can eventually cause crippling lameness and painful arthritis of the joints. It is a genetic (polygenic) trait that is affected by environmental factors. It can be found in many animals and in humans, but is most commonly associated with dogs, and is common in many dog breeds, particularly the larger breeds.’

To minimize the risk of producing Samoyed puppies with this condition, many Samoyed breeders undertake hip scoring on dogs and bitches that they wish to mate. Hip scoring is a procedure used to determine the degree of hip dysplasia in dogs and other animals and reporting the findings in a standard way. The hip score is the sum of the points awarded for each of nine radiographic tures of both hip joints. The hip score should be used as a tool to help you decide on suitable breeding stock. The British Veterinary Association (BVA) advise to breed only from dogs with scores below the median value for the breed which is currently (1/11/2014) a score of 9.

Click here for more info regarding the use of median value rather than mean

Finding a mate

Breeding Samoyeds is not a simple task. Samoyed breeders can spend many hours researching and reading pedigrees to not only source compatible dogs but also to attempt to find attractive traits from individual Samoyeds and family lines. It is advisable to visit one or more breed shows, to observe dogs and gain as much information as you possibly can and also to pinpoint potential mates. The breeder of your bitch may be able to advise you and assist.

When you have decided which dog you wish to use to mate to your bitch, make sure he is over 1 year old and has been hip scored. You should then make contact with his owners to discuss the possibility of using him for a mating. Most reputable dog owners would insist on seeing your bitch’s pedigree and hip score before agreeing to proceed any further. Be prepared that the owner may not agree to the mating. If the owner is happy for a mating to go ahead they will then inform you of their stud fee. A stud fee is the price you pay for them to use their dog for the mating. Current stud fees range from £400 – £1200+ and are often based on the dog’s success in the show ring. Once a fee has been agreed, in writing, you then wait until the bitch’s next season and (traditionally) take the bitch to the dog for a mating (see paragraph below). It is advisable, if possible, to organise for a repeat mating the following day to increase the chances of a successful mating. In the event of an unsuccessful mating, many dog owners will agree to a free mating the next time the bitch is in season, (this should be part of the stud dog contract) but not all do though. The owner of the stud dog may prefer to have a puppy, rather than a fee – they will also want to take their pick from the whole litter.

Mating

This is the part you would generally assume would be very straightforward and simple but it often isn’t. For first time breeders, it is highly advisable to seek the counsel of an experienced breeder prior to the day of the mating and, if possible, have an experienced breeder present at the mating to ensure everything goes to plan. The bitch should be ready for mating between the 11-14th day of her season but this can vary considerably. Its often advisable to have an ovulation test carried out by your vet to determine the correct date on which to mate your bitch, especially if the stud dog lives a fair distance away.

Care

A bitch is in whelp for approx. 63 days. It is advisable to have your bitch scanned 28 days after a successful mating. This should be able to tell you roughly how many pups there are (although Samoyeds normally have more than can be seen on a scan, but not always), or if there are no pups. A bitch can show all the signs of being pregnant, making milk and even nesting at the right time, but no pups, so its worth scanning to be sure.

A confirmed pregnant bitch should have her food gradually increased from 4 weeks of gestation, until she is eating almost double her normal amount of food. There are various supplements she can be given (eg calcium tablets) but there are no exact rules on supplements and it is up to the owner to research and decide what would suit their bitch.

Samoyeds can have litters of up to 10 puppies but more often 4-6 puppies, sometimes as few as one. Caring for a litter of Samoyed puppies is incredibly time consuming and plans need to be in place in case the bitch cannot feed the pups and they have to be hand raised

The whole breeding question can be an expensive undertaking (stud fee, food, equipment, vets bills etc.) with no guarantee of a successful litter. It can also be a very rewarding experience and, at times extremely emotional – especially in the case that one or more puppies die, and when the puppies leave to go to their new homes.

If you are thinking of mating your bitch then please make sure you are fully aware of what is involved and you do have the time and commitment to raise a litter. If you have any further question or would like more information then please contact the Samoyed club secretaries.

Definitions of canine hip dysplasia and hip scoring sourced from Wikipedia

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Written by Betty Brewer, 1990

Samoyed undercoat is the most profuse and luxurious of all dog fibres. It is wonderfully strong, and being nearly white, will dye to any colour. The Samoyed owningSpinningPicture spinner is indeed privileged. Garments made of these combings resemble Angora rabbit wool and are equally soft and warm.

The best undercoat for spinning is that from the first two weeks of the moult but it can be combed out for as long as it as easily lifted out of the skin. As soon as the guard hairs start to fall, the combings should not be saved as it will be more difficult to spin and will produce a more scratchy yarn. (It is slightly easier to spin dirty undercoat as it contains a small amount of oil.)

The undercoat may be spun as it comes off the dog, without any preparation. This, however, is difficult for beginners and it will require a very loose tension on the wheel and a high degree or twist or it will come apart as it is being spun. Also, it will have less elasticity than when mixed with a fibre with some crimp, like sheep’s fleece** and this is the more popular way to spin dog combings. It is combined, on special “carders”, with sheep’s fleece in varying amounts. You could use half Samoyed and half fleece for a very fluffy yarn or less Samoyed as required.

Alternatively, you could ply one reel of Samoyed, spun straight from the dog and one reel of fleece (or silk, cotton or synthetic, etc.)

Plying is the process when two reels of spun yarn are twisted together in the reverse direction to the spinning, and this produces the spun yarn which will not pull to the left or right when made in to an article.

The yarn is then taken off the reel and wound into a large skein, tied loosely in several places and washed in a mild detergent such as Stergene. If the fleece is used in conjunction with the dog wool it is advisable to soak the spun yarn in very hot water before washing, to preshrink it, but Samoyed wool on its own should not shrink or mat. Knitted and crocheted garments should be shaken out after each washing. They may need a slight brushing to stop the “moult”.

For those wishing to learn to spin, some spinning suppliers offer short courses and adult education institutes have spinning and weaving classes.

Spinning wheels vary from around £100 for an upright portable model to £300 plus for a super Saxony wheel.

It should last a lifetime and requires little maintenance other than oiling moving parts and changing the cords occasionally.

N.B. A spindle may be used instead of a wheel for Samoyed fleece combinations and this method of spinning is usually taught to beginners to get the feel of drawing out and twisting fibres. However, it is very slow and difficult to obtain a fine yarn.

Nevertheless, it does have its uses and the cost, of course, is minimal.

** Suitable fleeces for combining with Samoyed combings are; Shetland, Romney Marsh, Suffolk or any of the “Down” breeds, i.e. Hampshire, Dorset or Oxford. It must be fine, with some crimp, and have a soft feel.

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Isolated in the Arctic Circle, the Samoyed bred true, without influences from other breeds

Samoyeds are very friendly dogs that need human company. These characteristics arise from their background. They belonged to small family groups of people in western Siberia who depend on reindeer for their livelihood. Typically a herd consists of 3-4000 animals for which an extensive food supply is needed. For three winter months this is reindeer moss found in forests, but protein-rich grass is also essential and for this the herds travel some 600 miles northwards to the top of the Yamal peninsular. There they fatten for three months before returning southwards. Since each journey also takes three months the annual pattern of life involves six months on the move. For this the herder families need very substantial tents and sledges to carry them, pulled by the reindeer.

The herder families have used dogs in their way of life for maybe a thousand years or more. Other breeds have their origins in Siberia, but it seems that a small number of families developed a breed of more or less white dogs. Their main function was to keep the reindeer reasonably compact on the move and to give warning barks when danger appeared, such as bears. The obvious place for the dogs to live was with their human families, so they were loved and petted as well as worked. The people were naturally patient, tough and resilient, conditioned by Siberia’s harsh climate. The dogs, therefore, were with people most of the time and developed friendly natures reflecting those of their human families. From these have come our Samoyeds. Recent photographs show there are still a few left.

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The Samoyed is a breed particularly suited to living as a family pet. It takes its name from nomadic tribes of western Siberia who used the dogs to herd reindeer, to warn of the approach of bears and wolves and, occasionally, to pull sledges. The breed was very highly regarded by these people – now called the Nenets – and it was said the head male of a family group valued his dog more than his wife! Certainly the dogs were allowed to live inside the family home, often sleeping with the children as a canine version of the hot water bottle!

To-day the breed still loves to be involved in family life. One of the most endearing features of the Samoyed is its great love for people. Many seem to be able to sense their owners’ moods and adapt their behaviour accordingly. They are particularly good with children who are usually drawn to this breed with the smiling expression.

We make the proviso that for the USA show ring leg featherings are trimmed, but this is not the case in the UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and many countries in Europe and elsewhere. A few minutes daily brushing and a thorough comb to the skin each week is all that is normally necessary to keep them looking presentable. They do not seem to have the ‘doggy’ smell that most others have, particularly when wet. The Samoyed does shed its coat, the frequency varies depending on its sex and environment and may be once or twice each year, but with extra grooming the moult should not last long. The gleaming white coat seems to resist most dirt and thorough brushing when dry will get rid of most mud and loose dirt.

Like all breeds of dog the Samoyed needs consistent, firm training when young to grow into a well adapted adult. It is important that a young puppy learns to respect its owner’s rules for the daily life of the home. Although they are full of life and can be noisy if not corrected, most of all they like to be with their human companions. Because of this they should not be left on their own for many hours at a time; if they are they tend to make up their own fun by calling into play their natural tendencies – usually digging and chewing! Some are RobertsTasha01very agile and have been known to jump fences and even climb chain link! So it is very important that the puppy starts off in a home with a well fenced garden.

Always keen for a walk, Samoyeds need moderate exercise when adult, preferably with some free running off the lead for which access to a safe open space is necessary. They love snow, thoroughly enjoying a romp in it with children and family. In such conditions even the cleanest Samoyed looks ‘off-white’! In fact white-and-biscuit and cream coats are just as acceptable as ‘ pure’ white. Coats with some biscuit shading tend to have better weather resistance and most develop some biscuit colouring with age. Samoyeds also tolerate heat quite well though, as mentioned earlier, their soft undercoat is shed in warm conditions.

Given affection and correct handling this breed can make an ideal family pet.

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